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The philosophy used by great chefs is similar to that of great
winemakers. Great chefs start with the best and freshest meats and produce
from the market and create dishes that show off the flavors and
characteristics of these ingredients. They use their knowledge of different
cooking techniques and spices to enhance the overall flavor and mouth feel.
Similarly great winemakers seek out the best fruit and move it to
the winery so it arrives in the best condition possible. They use their knowledge of
winemaking techniques and oak aging to make the most complex wine possible
with the fruit as the center of attraction.
It is often said that great wines are really made in the vineyard and
that is mostly true. Great Pinot Noir can only be made from great
fruit, but great fruit can be made into mediocre or even flawed wine. At Mon Lis, we
seek out the best vineyards with low yields and proven track records.
The yield is watched and controlled carefully. The fruit is
tested and tasted regularly, and the picking decision is made not just on
lab results on the juice but also on the flavor of the grapes. The grapes are
also picked early in the morning so the fruit is cool. This is our way
of getting the best fruit possible into the winery.
Burgundian techniques enhanced by modern technology
Our winemaking philosophy is to use traditional Burgundian techniques
enhanced by a minimum intervention of modern technology. Since Pinot
Noir is such a delicate grape it is treated with great care.
After arriving at the winery, the grapes are placed in a stemmer-crusher
that removes stems and gently crushes the grapes. The crushed grapes
are then put into small, half-ton bins. Gentle treatment and gravity
flow are used throughout the entire process to prevent the wine from
developing harsh flavors as a result of crushed seeds. In the half
ton bins, approximately 15% of the juice is immediately removed from
the bins, a process the French call saignee. This accomplishes two things.
First and most importantly, this technique produces a higher concentration
of grape skins (known as must) to juice in the bin, which concentrates
both flavor and color in the pinot noir. To further increase the
concentration of flavors in the pinot noir, dry ice is added to the bins
so that the must and juice can mingle together while the temperature stays
low enough to prevent fermentation from beginning. During each of the four
days of cold soak, each half-ton bin is "punched down" by hand five times.
This is necessary because the must floats to the top, limiting contact
between must and juice. After four days of this cold soak, yeast is added
and both primary and malo-lactic fermentation begins. Several different yeasts
are utilized to impart additional complexity to the wine. Fermentation
temperatures are carefully monitored to ensure that fermentation continues
smoothly and temperatures do not climb so high as to damage the delicate fruit.
Similar to the cold soak period, each half-ton bin is "punched down" four
times a day to ensure additional contact between the must and the juice.
When nearly all of the sugar in the grapes is converted to alcohol and the
yeast activity slows, the wine is moved to the press via gravity flow and
then very lightly pressed. Afterward, the juice is placed in French Oak
barrels for 18 months of aging. Six different types of barrels are used to
add complexity and flavor. In 2004, the wine will be bottled, unfined and
unfiltered, which will maximize flavor. It will then be released during the
summer of 2004.
Second, the saignee process produces a salmon-colored juice that can separately
be made into a fresh, fruity summer wine. This salmon-colored juice is
barrel-fermented to full dryness and aged in French oak barrels for 6 months.
It will be released in the summer of 2003.
Significant differences from large wine producers
Mon Lis' wine-making techniques significantly differ from those of larger wine
producers. First only the highest quality fruit, oak and yeast are chosen for
our wines. Second, the use of gravity flow, which eliminates the need for pumping
the must, ensures that harsh flavors will not be imparted onto the wine. Third,
the use of half-ton bins and the saignee technique create high contact between must
and juice, which maximizes flavor and color extraction. Fourth, Mon Lis' pressing
technique is very gentle. While this does not maximize the amount of wine produced,
it maximizes the quality of the wine by not crushing the seeds and pressing harsh
flavors into the wine. Mon Lis' attention to detail and quality ensure that only
the finest wines will be produced.
Bottling of our first Pinot Noir is scheduled for spring of 2004 and the wine will be
released during the summer of 2004. Only 300 cases of this wine were produced.
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